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Buyer's Guide
Jewelry Glossary
   
Are Roberto Coin Rubies Conflict Free?
 

There has been a lot of talk about the issues with conflict free stones. Here's what Roberto Coin has to say about it.

"The Signature Ruby found in all of the Roberto Coin jewelry designs has always been a special wish from Roberto to his clients for a life full of love, health and good fortune. The use of the ruby has become a tradition for Roberto Coin since 1996 when he first introduced his signature Appassionata Collection.

We have been aware that the mining and production of the ruby has come at the expense of our fellow world citizens in Myanmar. Ninety percent of the world’s ruby supply is sourced from the country of Myanmar whose people have fallen under an unjust military regime. Our current stock of rubies has been purchased from reputable suppliers who have certified that they have been neither mined nor cut in Myanmar.

As our inventories are now nearly depleted, Roberto Coin will be implementing the use of manufactured rubies, similar to those used in watch movements, into all of his designs moving forward. We would like to assure you that these stones will be of the highest quality and adhere to the strictest quality control standards set forth by Roberto Coin. Should the situation in Myanmar be resolved and the United Nations confirm that the rights of the Myanmar people restored Roberto Coin will resume its use of rubies in the collections.

Our tradition of wishing our clients a life of love and prosperity will continue."

 

 

Are your diamonds Conflict Free?
 

This issue is of very great concern to us and therefore we make every effort possible to avoid "conflict diamonds." We do our best to make sure every diamond we buy from our vendors can be traced to its legitimate source and that these items are not involved in funding conflict.

We demand that our vendors remain in compliance with UN resolutions and the Kimberley Process. Our vendors guarantee that the diamonds we buy are conflict free, based on personal knowledge and/or written guarantees provided by the supplier of these diamonds.

Organizations in our industry agreed in 2003 on a program of self-regulation to complement the Kimberley Process created by the governments of nations involved in the diamond trade. We at JR Dunn Jewelers, welcomed the introduction of this global system to combat the illicit traffic in conflict diamonds and our policy has been to support the industry's self-regulation program.

For more information see Sean Dunn's Web Log >>

 

 

 

Diamond Quality
 
From the Gemological Institute of America: When viewed by the trained eye under 10x manification and proper lighting.


GRADE

Fl (Flawless) Rarely used in jewelry. Usually kept in safes for investment purposes.


IF (Internally Flawless) No inclusions, may have insignificant surface blemishes which may be polished out. Rare and very expensive.


Vvs-1 - Vvs-2 (Very,very slightly included)
Minor inclusions that are very difficult to see. Are rarely kept in stock as they are rare, especially in 1 or more carats.


Vs-1 (Very slightly included)
Minor inclusions that are difficult to see by a lay person under magnification. Professionals have difficulty seeing the inclusions. Expensive and hard to get in large quantities.


Vs-2 (Very slightly included) Same classification as Vs-1 but the inclusions are easier to see or are more numerous.


SI-1 (Slightly included) Noticable inclusions. Still an excellent stone. Difficult to see any inclusions with the unaided eye.


SI-2 - SI-3 (Slightly included)Sometimes the inclusions are visible from the bottom looking up but not usually visible from the top down. Exceptions would be with large diamonds or with Emerald cuts. The inclusions do not affect the durability of the diamond.


I-1 (Inclusions)Inclusions are barely visible through the top (Crown) with the unaided eye. This can be a good choice for people on a limited budget.


I-2 The inclusions are plainly visible. The beauty and duarability of the diamond is affected. The grade commonly used by non - certified discount jewelers and discount jewelry.


I-3 Unacceptable as jewelry. Has a shattered or milky look.








COLOR


D/E/F - ColorlessRepresent the most expensive diamonds - Rare/hard to get by most jewelers.


G/H/I/J - Near colorlessIf your diamond has such a grade you should be very pleased since it can be worth a lot of money. The color inclusion, especially at the G-H level is so slight that most people cannot tell the difference. When these diamonds are mounted in jewelry, even expert graders may find it impossible to distinguish them from the colorless diamonds. A very high grade for most jewelry. I and J grades are most often used by mall type jewelers. It is popular because of cost and ease of purchase in quantity. Fine quality jewelers stock this category as the discount stores cannot afford to sell these.


K/L/M Faint yellow tinge. More often used in discount jewelry.


N to ZVery light to light yellow - you should have to pay considerably less for such color grades. A Q color stone should cost ten times less than a comparable D color stone.

 

 

 

How do I buy pearls?
 

WHAT IS A PEARL? NATURAL vs. CULTURED

Natural Pearls are formed by nature without the hand of man. While living in it's natural habitat, a mollusk such as an oyster, gets a small irritant inside its shell such as a grain of sand, coral or seashell. This foreign body is irritating to the animal so it secrets a mucus to protect against tissue damage (much like a human forms a blister). This mucus hardens and accumulates in many layers, called the nacre, until it becomes larger and larger, becomming one of the most prized objects in the world - a pearl. From this humble beginning, true natural pearls are very rare, consequently considered the most valuable pearls and are not commonly found in the modern jewelry marketplace.

In 1893, Kokichi MIKIMOTO conceived a method of duplicating this natural process by inserting a shell fragment into the oyster and stimulating the oyster to grow the thousands of layers of nacre which form a beautiful lustrous pearl. The resulting pearls are referred to as "Cultured pearls."

Cultured pearls are formed the same way as natural pearls, but man inserts the irritant (called the nucleus). This process is called "seeding" because a small seed or bead is inserted into the mollusk and the pearl is formed around it. For the best cultured pearls, this bead is made of mollusk shell. The mollusks are raised in a controlled environment, on a farm. The great majority of pearls sold today for jewelry are cultured pearls.

 

 

TYPES OF PEARLS

The various types of pearls differ in their luster and their mysterious colors depending on the type of oyster that produced them, and they can take on a wide variety of appearances.

Akoya Pearls
Akoya pearls are produced by Akoya oysters in Japan. Depending on the size of the oyster, their size may vary between 2-10mm. The range of color of these pearls includes white, cream, pink, green, silver, and gold. Akoya pearls are known for their high luster and rich color. Mikimoto pearls are the most famous Akoya pearls.

South Sea Pearls
Frequently called Tahitian pearls, South Sea Pearls are formed by the Pinctada Maxima or "Lipped" oyster. They are farmed in saltwater and grown over a minimum period 2.5 years. Only one pearl is grown per oyster, so these pearls are more expensive and rare than freshwater pearls. They are generally seen in larger sizes, ranging from 8mm and up. Their wide array of colors includes: white, cream, yellow, gold, silver, rose or black. Produced in the South Pacific regions especially in Burma, Indonesia, Thailand, the Philippines, Australia and Tahiti. Tahiti produces especially famous pearls many of which appear in beautiful shades of black and the highly coveted peacock green.

Keshi Pearls
Small pearls created as a by-product of the pearl culturing process. If debris enters an oyster while it's open during the harvesting process, the oyster covers the debris with nacre, thus creating keshi pearls.

"Mother of Pearl"
Not an actual pearl, it is the shiny coating that can be seen on the inside of an oyster. All shells that have ability to create a pearl will have the mother of pearl coating present.

Mabe Pearls
Created when man attaches a synthetic dome to the inside shell of an oyster, which reacts by covering the dome with nacre. When harvested, the mabe is cut off from the shell, and the inside filled with plastic or other material, to give it more weight. Mother of pearl is sometimes placed on the back of mabe pearls.

Freshwater Pearls
Grown in mussels or Hyriopsis Cumingi as the host oyster, in the lakes and rivers of China, these pearls are not usually perfectly round. The irritants and oysters used in making freshwater pearls are smaller than saltwater pearls. Freshwater pearl cultivating techniques usually produce twenty or more pearls in one oyster, and it only takes 1.5 years to harvest, so they are generally less expensive than sea-pearls.

 

QUALITIES OF THE PERFECT PEARL

As the Originator of Cultured Pearls, MIKIMOTO maintains the strictest quality standards and created the grading system that is commonly used to grade pearls -- this means that ONLY Mikimoto pearls may truely be called AAA or any other grade. But just as diamonds have the "4 C's" pearls have 5 properties that are used to judge their quality and will affect their price.

Luster: Luster is the amount of light reflected from the pearl's surface. The finer the pearl the more of a 'rainbow' of color will be reflected.

Size: Large pearls are more difficult to cultivate. Sea pearl generally ranges from 3.5mm to 10mm in size. South Sea (White, Golden, or Black) pearl sizes begin at 10mm and can be as large as 18mm.

Shape: round pearls are the rarest and most valuable, but other shapes like tear drop and baroque are also favored because of their uniqueness.

Color: Color is based on preference, but it is always important to find a color that is rich and evenly distributed on the pearl.

Surface: A pearl is considered more valuable when the surface imperfections are minimal, however, tiny marks found on pearls are part of their natural texture and are proof of the genuineness of a cultured pearl.

 

 

 

How do I find my bracelet size?
 

The best way to size yourself for a bracelet is to take a string and wrap it around your wrist, then measure the string with a ruler. That will give you a measurement of your wrist. Most companies, such as Mikimoto or John Hardy recommend a bracelet to be at least 1/2 to 1 inch larger then your wrist, so for instance, if your wrist measures 6.5" around then a 7.0 or 7.5" bracelet is good for you, depending on how tight you want your bracelet.

 

 

How do I find my ring size?
  To make it easy to find your ring size, we have two pdf printable ring sizers. Choose the one that's easiest for you and print it:

1) If you don't know your size, print this one to [Measure your finger]

or

2) If you have an old ring, print this one to [Measure the inside of your ring]

 

 

 

I see it in white gold can I get it in yellow or rose gold?
 

Very often the answer is yes! We may have the item in stock in another color gold or we may be able to order it for you -- please ask.

 

 

 

JOHN HARDY CHAIN FIT GUIDE
  John Hardy Chains come in a size and style for almost everyone. If you are unsure of what you need or are purchasing a chain for a pendant and would like assistance, please feel free to contact us for help. As all of John Hardy's products are handmade, the measurements may differ slightly from one item to another.

john hardy chain necklace

picking the right john hardy silver woven necklace

Widths for Woven Chain Bracelets and Necklaces:

Mini 92C 3mm
Slim 93C 4mm
Extra Small 96C 5mm
Small 904C 6.5mm
Med 90400C 7.5mm
Large 9404C 10.5mm

Lengths for Chain and Leather Bracelets:

SizeWomen's ChainWomen's LeatherMen's ChainMen's Leather
Small7"6.75"8"7.5"
Med7.5"7.25"8.5"8"
Large8"7.25"9"8.5"
Michele Watch Straps at JR Dunn Jewelers
 

STRAPS:
12mm straps & bracelets
16mm straps & bracelets
18mm straps & bracelets
20mm straps & bracelets

Ring Size Chart
 
Inside Diameter Circumference US/Canada British, Irish, Australian Japanese Swiss
(inches) (mm) (inches) (mm)
0.458 11.6 1.438 36.5 0      
0.466 11.8 1.463 37.2 1/4      
0.474 12.0 1.488 37.8 1/2 A    
0.482 12.2 1.513 38.4 3/4 A 1/2    
0.490 12.4 1.539 39.1 1 B 1  
0.498 12.6 1.564 39.7 1 1/4 B 1/2    
0.506 12.9 1.589 40.4 1 1/2 C    
0.514 13.1 1.614 41.0 1 3/4 C 1/2    
0.522 13.3 1.639 41.6 2 D 2 1.50
0.530 13.5 1.664 42.3 2 1/4 D 1/2    
0.538 13.7 1.689 42.9 2 1/2 E 3 2.75
0.546 13.9 1.714 43.5 2 3/4 E 1/2    
0.554 14.1 1.740 44.2 3 F 4 4.00
0.562 14.3 1.765 44.8 3 1/4 F 1/2 5 5.25
0.570 14.5 1.790 45.5 3 1/2 G    
0.578 14.7 1.815 46.1 3 3/4 G 1/2 6 6.50
0.586 14.9 1.840 46.7 4 7  
0.594 15.1 1.865 47.4 4 1/4 H 1/2   7.75
0.602 15.3 1.890 48.0 4 1/2 8  
0.610 15.5 1.915 48.7 4 3/4 J   9.00
0.618 15.7 1.941 49.3 5 J 1/2 9  
0.626 15.9 1.966 49.9 5 1/4 K   10.00
0.634 16.1 1.991 50.6 5 1/2 K 1/2 10  
0.642 16.3 2.016 51.2 5 3/4 L   11.75
0.650 16.5 2.041 51.8 6 L 1/2 11 12.75
0.658 16.7 2.066 52.5 6 1/4 12  
0.666 16.9 2.091 53.1 6 1/2 M 1/2 13 14.00
0.674 17.1 2.116 53.8 6 3/4 N    
0.682 17.3 2.141 54.4 7 N 1/2 14 15.25
0.690 17.5 2.167 55.0 7 1/4    
0.698 17.7 2.192 55.7 7 1/2 O 1/2 15 16.50
0.706 17.9 2.217 56.3 7 3/4    
0.714 18.1 2.242 56.9 8 P 1/2 16 17.75
0.722 18.3 2.267 57.6 8 1/4    
0.730 18.5 2.292 58.2 8 1/2 Q 1/2 17  
0.738 18.7 2.317 58.9 8 3/4 R   19
0.746 18.9 2.342 59.5 9 R 1/2 18  
0.754 19.2 2.368 60.1 9 1/4 S   20.25
0.762 19.4 2.393 60.8 9 1/2 S 1/2 19  
0.770 19.6 2.418 61.4 9 3/4 T   21.5
0.778 19.8 2.443 62.1 10 T 1/2 20  
0.786 20.0 2.468 62.7 10 1/4 U 21  
0.794 20.2 2.493 63.3 10 1/2 U 1/2 22 22.75
0.802 20.4 2.518 64.0 10 3/4 V    
0.810 20.6 2.543 64.6 11 V 1/2 23  
0.818 20.8 2.569 65.2 11 1/4 W   25
0.826 21.0 2.594 65.9 11 1/2 W 1/2 24  
0.834 21.2 2.619 66.5 11 3/4 X    
0.842 21.4 2.644 67.2 12 X 1/2 25 27.50
0.850 21.6 2.669 67.8 12 1/4    
0.858 21.8 2.694 68.4 12 1/2 Z 26 28.75
0.866 22.0 2.719 69.1 12 3/4 Z 1/2    
0.874 22.2 2.744 69.7 13   27  
0.882 22.4 2.769 70.3 13 1/4 Z1    
0.890 22.6 2.795 71.0 13 1/2      
0.898 22.8 2.820 71.6 13 3/4 Z2    
0.906 23.0 2.845 72.3 14 Z3    
0.914 23.2 2.870 72.9 14 1/4      
0.922 23.4 2.895 73.5 14 1/2 Z4    
0.930 23.6 2.920 74.2 14 3/4      
0.938 23.8 2.945 74.8 15      
0.946 24.0 2.970 75.4 15 1/4      
0.954 24.2 2.996 76.1 15 1/2      
0.962 24.4 3.021 76.7 15 3/4      
0.970 24.6 3.046 77.4 16      

 

NEED HELP? CONTACT US >>

 

 

 

What are the measurements for a 1 carat Diamond? How big is one carat cushion typical diamond size in millimeters?
 

Since Carat is a weight, two diamonds of the same carat may be different millimeter measurements. This is intended as a general reference, since all diamonds are unique. Also keep in mind that depending on your computer monitor, the images may look much smaller or larger than intended. Use a ruler to get a better idea of the millimeter lengths provided.

Round Diamonds, Princess or Square Diamonds:

Oval Diamonds Carat Sizes, Cushion Diamond Sizes:

 

 

 

What is Palladium?
 

 

pal·la·di·um n. (Symbol Pd) A soft, ductile, steel-white, tarnish-resistant, metallic element occurring naturally with platinum, especially in gold, nickel, and copper ores. It is alloyed for use in electric contacts, jewelry, nonmagnetic watch parts, and surgical instruments. A charcoal gray form of platinum found in Russia, South Africa and North America. Palladium has many of the same properties as platinum such as its resistance to corrosion and versatile applications in jewelry designs. Pieces made with Palladium bear the hallmarks of Pd950 or Pd500. Atomic number 46; atomic weight 106.4; melting point 1,552°C; boiling point 3,140°C; specific gravity 12.02 (20°C); valence 2, 3, 4.

 

William Hyde Wollaston and Smithson Tennant isolated palladium as a separate member of the platinum group in 1802. It wasn’t commonly used in jewelry until World War II when platinum was needed for the war effort and reserved for military use.

Because it weighed less than platinum, palladium jewelry could be made larger and still be comfortable and its malleability made stone setting and working the metal easy. Palladium also could be alloyed with gold to produce a type of white gold. Despite these advantages, palladium was gradually phased out after World War II when platinum became available again.

It is whiter than platinum and lighter, nearly half the weight, so it is an especially good choice in earrings. With the price of platinum and gold reaching recent highs, use of palladium for jewelry has seen renewed interest domestically and abroad.

Palladium’s use is mandated to avoid allergic reactions such as skin rashes, dermatitis, and eczema that may otherwise result from wearing white gold jewelry made with nickel. A white gold alloy content is typically 75 percent gold and 15 percent palladium for an 18-carat gold piece of jewelry. While traditionally other metals including nickel and zinc have been used as the whitening agent for white gold, the least skin sensitive gold alloy is made with palladium.

Palladium’s color is a pleasing light gray, but it doesn’t take a high polish the way platinum does and may have a tendency to become dull over time. However, some retailers have replaced white gold with palladium for the benefits of price range. It is simililar in price to white gold, but palladium has a superior appearance in that it is permanently white. Unlike white gold it will never yellow over time, and therefore will not require re-rhodium plating to renew the whitening as with most white gold pieces.

 

 

 

What is Rhodium?
 

 

rho·di·um n. (Symbol Rh) A rare, silvery-white metallic element that is one of the platinum group; hard, durable, and resistant to acids; has a high reflectance. Rhodium metal does not normally form an oxide, even when heated. It is used as a permanent plating for jewelry and is added to platinum to make high-temperature alloys. Used to electroplate microscopes and instrument parts to prevent corrosion. Atomic number 45; atomic weight 102.9; melting point 1,966°C; boiling point 3,727°C; specific gravity 12.41 (20°C); valence 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.

 

Precious Metals can be Rhodium Plated to provide protection and to help prevent tarnish and surface scratches and to give the piece a a reflective, high-polish, high-shine white surface. Rhodium is electroplated on to white gold, sterling silver and platinum. This is known as rhodium "flashing" in the jewelry business.

From a decorative standpoint, what makes rhodium so desirable?
Among numerous other physical characteristics such as hardness, and high reflectivity, rhodium has an extraordinary resistance to most acids and corrosive substances. It is one of the few "white" metals that will remain bright and reflective under all atmospheric conditions at ordinary temperatures. As a result, electroplated surfaces that utilize rhodium plating remain scratch resistant, bright and attractive for years.

 

 

 

Why JR Dunn?
 

 

The J.R. Dunn Difference

Besides all of the warm and fuzzy things you can read about us in our history, the number one thing that separates us from our competition online is we don’t engage in drop shipping. Drop shipping is a cost saving practice where internet jewelers have suppliers ship diamonds directly to their customers without ever seeing the diamond.

Our question is, “How can you guarantee the quality of a diamond and stand behind it if you have never seen it”?

J.R. Dunn Jeweler’s policy is to have our Graduate Gemologist verify the diamond you’ve order against our strict quality control check list.

1. All diamonds must diamond tested
2. All diamonds must be weighed to verify carat weight.
3. All diamonds must be examined under a GIA gem scope to verify the following:

  • The Lab report matches diamond.
  • There are no chips, abrasions and scratches that may have occurred after the diamond was certified.
  • The diamond’s color matches.
  • The diamond’s clarity matches.
  • The diamonds is as beautiful as the quality would indicate.

* None of this can be accomplished when the diamond is drop shipped.

 

 

 

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